Wella Color Charm
PERMANENT LIQUID HAIRCOLOR EDUCATION WORKBOOK
liquifuse
technology
01
Introduction
Liquifuse Technology™
Wella Color Charm 5 Tonal Families
Wella Color Charm Level & Tone Numbering System
Wella Color Charm Level System
Wella Color Charm Tonal Identiers
Wella Color Charm Shade Palette
Selecting Your Shade
Mixing Instructions
Wella Color Charm Shade Level & Developer Chart
Wella Color Charm Application Instructions
Wella Color Charm Additives
High Lift Blonding
Wella Color Charm Toners
Optimum Gray Hair Coverage
Consultation Guide
Step-by-Step Technique
Wella Color Charm Creative Formulation Guide
Comparison Chart
Table of Contents
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
10
12
13
14
16
17
18
19
20
21
24
26
vibrant colors
as
creative as you are
02
Rediscover Wella Color Charm
GREAT CONDITIONING
Saturates each strand to deliver great conditioning.
EXCELLENT GRAY COVERAGE
Colors the most resistant hair every time.
GENTLE FLORAL FRAGRANCE
For a much more pleasurable coloring experience.
*
Versus untreated hair
VIBRANT, LONG LASTING, FADE RESISTANT RESULTS
•Infuses the hair with vibrant color molecules
•Intense color and up to 43% more shine*, even on darker hair
•Long-lasting, true to tone color
Liquifuse
Technology
TM
03
Liquifuse Technology™ saturates, penetrates and fuses with the hair
to deliver vibrant color that is exceptionally fade resistant.
Here’s how it works:
1. SATURATES:
Liquid color coupler molecules combine with color
activator to form a gel.
You can put it exactly where you want and
it will stay there, saturating every strand of hair
as you apply.
2. PENETRATES:
The gel penetrates the hair shaft to deliver vibrant
color molecules.
3. FUSES:
The color fuses deep within the cortex
of the hair to make it exceptionally
fade resistant.
4. THE RESULT:
Beautiful, vibrant, long-lasting haircolor and excellent
gray coverage.
liquifuse
technology
Wella Color Charm
5 Tonal Families
04
Wella Color Charm organizes its shade range in a logical way utilizing a
color-coded tonal family system. This system helps you to quickly identify
each family and provides a logical position on the Wella Color Charm
swatch chart to allow for easy shade selection.
Thevetonalfamiliesare:
REDGOLDNATURAL ASH WARM
05
What is a level?
A level describes how light or dark a color is regardless of its tonal character.
This is represented by a numeric system based on international standards.
What is a tone?
A tone is the overall character of the color result that you will see.
This is represented by the one or two letters that follow the level number.
TONE
LEVEL
Therstnumberindicatesthe
level of the color based on how
light or dark the expected result
will be.
The letter following the number
represents the tonal qualities of
the shade. In this case the letter
‘N’ indicates a Natural tone.
Wella Color Charm Level and Tone
Shade Numbering System
Wella Color Charm uses an international Level and Tone system
for identifying each shade. This system enables logical and consistent
shadeselectionsothatyoucanformulateyourcolorswithtotalcondence
for perfect results every time. It also keeps the older Wella Color Charm
numberwhereappropriate,soyoucaneasilyndyourfavoriteshade.
EXAMPLE
0706
level
number
natural
level
level name
12
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
high lift
lightest blonde
very light blonde
light blonde
medium blonde
dark blonde
light brown
medium brown
dark brown
very dark brown
black
Natural Level Chart
Notes
TONAL
REPESENTATION
TONAL
DESCRIPTION
Multiple Tone Shades
Some shades contain a combination of two tones.
Wella Color Charm
Color Charm Tonal Identiers
07
1. Level Name: Tone Descriptor:
2. Level Name: Tone Descriptor:
3. Level Name: Tone Descriptor:
TONAL IDENTIFIER CHART
N
A
G
W
R
C
V
natural
ash
gold
warm
red
cool
violet
TONAL
IDENTIFIER
EXAMPLE
EXERCISES
EXERCISES
1 2 3
1 2 3
1. Level Name:
Primary Tone Secondary Tone
2. Level Name:
Primary Tone Secondary Tone
3. Level Name:
Primary Tone Secondary Tone
SECONDARY
PRIMARY
Therstletters,inthiscaseW,representstheprimarytone.
This tone will be the dominant tonal characteristic in this
shade. The second letter, in this case V, represents the secondary
tone.Thesecondarytoneismoresubtleandprovidesthenal
result with soft undertones.
Where you have two identical tone letter, such as with the AA shades,
this means that the color results will be more intense.
Wella Color Charm Shade Palette
08
ASH / CENIZO
GOLD / DORADO
12N
1200
High Lift Blonde
Rubio Intensificado
BASE
NEUTRAL NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTRO
NEUTROZ
AZUL-
VIOLETA
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
NEUTRO-
CASTANO
AZUL
AZUL-
VIOLETA
AZUL-
VIOLETA
AZUL
AZUL
AZUL
VERDE
AZUL
AZUL
VERDE
VIOLETA
VERDE
VERDE
OLIVO
VERDE
AZUL-
VIOLETA
NEUTRO-
DORADO
AMARILLO
NEUTRO-
DORADO
NEUTRO-
DORADO
NEUTRO-
DORADO
DORADO-
VIOLETA
DORADO
DORADO
DORADO
DORADO
DORADO
DORADO
10N
1001
9N
911
8N
811
8NW
7N
711
7NW
6N
611
6AA
542
6NW
Satin Blonde
Rubio Satinado
Very Light Blonde
Rubio Muy Claro
BASE
NEUTRAL
Light Blonde
Rubio Claro
Medium Blonde
Rubio Mediano
BASE
NEUTRAL
Dark Blonde
Rubio Oscuro
Light Brown
Castaño Claro
BASE
NEUTRAL
Medium Brown
Castaño Mediano
BASE
NEUTRAL
Dark Brown
Castaño Oscuro
BASE
NEUTRAL
Very Dark Brown
Castaño Muy
Oscuro
BASE
NEUTRAL
Black
Negro
BASE
BLUE-VIOLET
3N
311
3NW
2N
211
1N
051
5N
511
5NW
4N
411
4NW
HIGH
LIFT
12
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Frosty Ash
Cenizo Escarchado
Palest Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo Muy
Pálido
Light Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo Claro
Medium Smokey Ash
Blonde/Rubio Humo
Cenizo Mediano
Dark Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo
Oscuro
Medium Ash Brown
Castaño Cenizo
Mediano
Dark Ash Brown
Castaño Cenizo
Oscuro
Pale Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo
Pálido
Light Ash Brown
Castaño Cenizo
Claro
Nordic Blonde
Rubio Nórdico
Dark Blonde
Intense Ash
Rubio Oscuro
Cenizo Intenso
Light Brown
Intense Ash
Castaño Claro Cenizo
Intenso
12A
1210
BASE
BLUE
BASE
VIOLET
12C
1290
Ultra Light Blonde
Rubio Extra Claro
BASE
VIOLET-BLUE
12NG
10A
1030
Surf Side Blonde
Plus/Rubio Espuma
de Mar Plus
BASE
NEUTRAL-GOLD
BASE
VIOLET-BLUE
9A
940
8A
740
1
/2
7A
672
BASE
BLUE
BASE
BLUE
BASE
VIOLET-BLUE
10GV
1036
Honey Blonde
Rubio Miel
BASE
GOLD-VIOLET
BASE
GOLD
Light Golden
Brown/Castaño
Dorado Claro
5G
435
Dark Golden
Brown/Castaño
Dorado Oscuro
BASE
GOLD
4G
257
Soft Pure Gold
Blonde /Rubio
Dorado Puro Suave
BASE
GOLD
9G
10NG
1070
Honey Beige
Blonde/Rubio
Beige Miel
BASE
YELLOW
Light Golden
Blonde/Rubio
Dorado Claro
BASE
GOLD
Sunlight Blonde
Brown/Rubio
Castaño Brillante
BASE
GOLD
Hazel Blonde
Rubio Avellana
BASE
GOLD
7NG
Medium Beige
Blonde/Rubio
Beige Mediano
BASE
NEUTRAL-GOLD
9NG
8NG
BASE
NEUTRAL-GOLD
Light Beige Blonde
Rubio Beige Claro
BASE
NEUTRAL-GOLD
Sand Blonde
Rubio Arena
7AA
632
Medium Ash
Blonde/Rubio
Cenizo Mediano
BASE
GREEN
6A
462
BASE
OLIVE
BASE
GREEN
BASE
BLUE
BASE
BLUE-GREEN
BASE
GREEN
BASE
BLUE
3A
148
5A
246
5AA
336
4A
237
BASE
NEUTRAL
BASE
NEUTRAL
BASE
NEUTRAL
NATURAL / NEUTRO
Light Natural Warm
Blonde/ Rubio
Natural Cálido Claro
Medium Natural
Warm Blonde/Rubio
Natural Cálido Mediano
Dark Natural Warm
Blonde/Rubio
Natural Cálido Oscuro
Light Natural Warm
Brown/Castaño
Natural Cálido Claro
Medium Natural
Warm Brown/Castaño
Natural Cálido Mediano
Dark Natural Warm
Brown/Castaño
Natural Cálido Oscuro
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
BASE
NEUTRAL-BROWN
12AA
1120
8G
841
7G
725
6G
555
7W
6W
08
CASTANO
CASTANO
CASTANO-
VIOLETA
CASTANO-
VIOLETA
CASTANO-
ROJO
CASTANO-
ROJO
ROJO-
DORADO
ROJO-
DORADO
ROJO-DORADO
ROJO-
DORADO
ROJO
ROJO
ROJO
ROJO-
VIOLETA
ROJO-
VIOLETA
ROJO-
VIOLETA
TONERS
TONIFICADORES
Pale Blonde
Rubio Pálido
BASE
VIOLET-BLUE
T-10
PRE-LIGHTEN:
PALE
YELLOW
VIOLETA-
AZUL
050
BP
042
Cooling Violet
Violeta Fresco
BP Blonding
Plus
Warming Gold
Dorado Cálido
ADDITIVES
ADITIVOS
Lightest Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo
Clarísimo
BASE
VIOLET
T-18
Pale Ash Blonde
Rubio Cenizo
Pálido
BASE
VIOLET-BLUE
T-14
PRE-
LIGHTEN:
PALE
YELLOW
PRE-LIGHTEN:
PALE
YELLOW
VIOLETA
VIOLETA-
AZUL
Lightest Beige Blonde
Rubio Beige
Clarísimo
BASE
GOLD-VIOLET
T-11
Beige Blonde
Rubio Beige
Clarísimo
BASE
GOLD-VIOLET
T-35
PRE-LIGHTEN:
PALE
YELLOW
PRE-LIGHTEN:
GOLD
DORADO-
VIOLETA
DORADO-
VIOLETA
RED / ROJO
WARM / CÁLIDO
Caramel
Caramelo
BASE
BROWN
Nutmeg
Nuez Moscada
BASE
BROWN-VIOLET
Praline
Almendra
BASE
BROWN
Cinnamon
Canela
BASE
BROWN-VIOLET
Allspice
Pimienta
BASE
BROWN-RED
Titian Red Blonde
Rubio Rojizo
BASE
RED-GOLD
Tan Blonde
Rubio Tostado
BASE
BROWN-RED
Red-Red
Rojo-Rojo
BASE
RED
Cyclamen
Ciclamen
Burgundy
Rojo Vino
BASE
RED-VIOLET
Cinnamon Brown
Castaño Canela
BASE
RED
Black Cherry
Cereza Negra
BASE
RED-VIOLET
Light Copper
Cobre Claro
BASE
RED-GOLD
Red Terra Cotta
Rojo Terracota
8RG
729
5WV 5WR
3RV
367
7R
810
6R
7WV
6RG
544
Light Auburn
Castaño Rojizo
Claro
BASE
RED-GOLD
5RG
445
Dark Auburn
Castaño Rojizo
Oscuro
BASE
RED-GOLD
4RG
347
6RV
607
5RV
507
4R
356
BASE
RED-VIOLET
BASE
RED
7WR
643
09
liquifuse
technology
Selecting Your Shade
When lightening hair from a natural level 5 to a level 7, you expose
the red and gold natural underlying contributing pigment which may
resultinyournalhaircolorbeingtoowarm.Thiscanbecontrolled
by using the right tone, as indicated by the Color Circle, to counteract
this natural underlying pigment.
10
Exposed Contributing Pigment Guide
All natural haircolor is made up of a number of natural color pigments. These pigments are either warm or cool
in tone and it is the combination of these that produces the natural haircolor that we see. As we lighten the hair
these pigments are exposed, often producing warm results.
Haircolor results are a combination of two factors: the shade used and the
underlying contributing pigment of the natural haircolor. There are two
concepts that can help us better understand these factors:
1) Exposed Contributing Pigment Guide and 2) Color Circle.
EXAMPLE
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
lightest blonde
very light blonde
light blonde
medium blonde
dark blonde
light brown
medium brown
dark brown
very dark brown
black
pale yellow
yellow
yellow
gold
gold
red gold
red
red
brown
black
NATURAL
LEVEL
LEVEL
NATURAL
HAIRCOLOR
EXPOSED CONTRIBUTING PIGMENT
Color Circle
The Color Circle is a tool that explains the fundamental rules of color. These are equally
applicable whether you are a painter, a photographer, a designer or a professional colorist.
Anawarenessofthefundamentalrulesofcolorwillallowyoutocondentlyselect
the right shade for your client every time.
11
Neutralizing Unwanted Tones
Colors that are opposite each other on the color circle neutralize each other and can be
helpful in reducing unwanted warmth or eliminating too much ash.
Secondary Colors
They are achieved by mixing the
primary colors (green, orange, violet).
ORANGE
YELLOW
RED
GREEN
BLUE
VIOLET
TERTIARY COLORS
PRIMARY
COLORS
SECONDARY COLORS
(MIX 2 PRIMARY COLORS TOGETHER)
Tertiary colors are all of the shades
in-between the primary and secondary
colors. They represent
the limitless subtle variations in tonal
character and intensity.
Yellow
Blue
Red
Blue + Yellow = Green
Red + Yellow = Orange
Blue + Red = Purple/Violet
Primary Colors
Cannot be mixed from any combination of
other colors (yellow, blue, red).
Wella Color Charm
Mixing Instructions
Normal Mixing
Determine the desired amount
of product needed.
Choose the application method—
applicator bottle or bowl and brush.
1:2 Mixing Ratio: mix together well—
1 part Wella Color Charm Permanent
Haircolor to 2 parts Wella Color
Charm Developer.
Tip:
1 oz Color Charm Permanent
Haircolor + 2 oz Wella
Color Charm Developer.
Begin application immediately.
Mix one whole bottle of Color
Charm Liquid Haircolor with
3 oz of Color Charm developer.
12
Cream Developer, ideal for bowl and
brush or bottle application. Available in
20 Vol and 40 Vol (32 oz and 4 oz bottles)
Clear Developer, ideal for bottle application.
Available in 20 Vol (32 oz bottle).
Wella Color Charm has two
dedicated developers:
Same depth or darker
than natural haircolor
Deposit with minimal lift,
depending on texture
and porosity
Up to 2 levels of lift
Optimum coverage
on white hair
3-4 levels of lift
Maximum lift for brighter
and clearer blonde results
10 volume
(Mix equal
parts 20
volume and
distilled water)
20 volume
40 volume
DEVELOPER SELECTION GUIDE
EXAMPLE
13
10
Lightest
Blonde
9
Very Light
Blonde
8
Light
Blonde
7
Medium
Blonde
6
Dark
Blonde
5
Light
Brown
4
Medium
Brown
3
Dark
Brown
2
Very Dark
Brown
1
Black
NATURAL LEVEL
Wella Color Charm
Shade Level Developer Chart
1 Black
2 Very Dark Brown
3 Dark Brown
4 Medium Brown
5 Light Brown
6 Dark Blonde
7 Medium Blonde
8 Light Blonde
9 Very Light Blonde
10 Lightest Blonde
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
DOUBLE
PROCESS
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
20
Vol
20
Vol
20
Vol
40
Vol
40
Vol
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
DOUBLE
PROCESS
TARGET LEVEL
Wella Color Charm
Application Instructions
14
Strand Test
Performing a strand test is always recommended, especially if hair is porous or has
previously been subjected to lighteners, permanent waves, chemical hair relaxers or haircolor.
Mix a small amount of desired color according to directions and apply to selected strands
of hair in a discreet area. After 30 minutes, rinse strand and check color result and hair condition.
Same Depth or Darker: First Time Color Application
WHEN FINAL RESULT WILL BE THE SAME DEPTH OR DARKER THAN THE NATURAL HAIRCOLOR:
1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color from scalp to ends.
2. When application is complete, using a wide-tooth comb, gently comb the product through
the hair to ensure even distribution.
3. Develop 30 minutes or up to 45 minutes if additional depth or gray coverage is needed.
Lightening: First Time Color Application
WHEN FINAL RESULT WILL BE LIGHTER THAN THE NATURAL HAIRCOLOR:
1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color to lengths and ends, starting 1-inch away from the scalp.
2. Develop for 15 minutes.
3. Mix fresh color and apply to untreated hair at the scalp area.
4. Develop for an additional 15-30 minutes or until color is even.
15
Re-growth Application
1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color to re-growth area.
2. Develop 30 minutes or up to 45 minutes if additional
depth or gray coverage is needed.
3. Use color-balancing procedure to refresh lengths
and ends of the hair if needed.
Stylist tip: Fine sections should be taken in order
to achieve thorough and even saturation.
Notes
Wella Color Charm Additives
16
TIP: When working with darker shade
selections, use more Cooling Violet Additive
to achieve more noticeable results. Lighter
shade selections will normally require less Cooling
Violet Additive to achieve your
desired result.
Warming Gold
Additive
The Warming Gold Additive can be added to any
existing Wella Color Charm shade to add more warmth
toyournalresult.Thiswillprovidegreaterdenition
and vibrancy to red, gold and rich brown shades.
To use the Warming Gold Additive add between
2-4 capfuls of Warming Gold Additive to a full mixture
of Wella Color Charm. The more Warming Gold
Additive you use, the more pronounced the effect will
beonyournalresult.
Blonding Plus
When working on a natural level 6 or lighter, you can
add the Blonding Plus Additive to your formula to
increase the lifting action. This can be added to any
Wella Color Charm shade on a level 9 or above.
To use the Blonding Plus Additive, mix 1 part Color
Charm color, 1 part Blonding Plus additive and 4
parts 20 volume Color Charm developer. Apply to the
hair as usual and develop up to 45 minutes. Check
frequently for desired result.
Blonding Plus should never be used alone and should
not be used with 40 volume developer.
It is only to be used with Color Charm shades
Level 9 or lighter.
The use of Wella Color Charm Additives gives you even
greatercontrolofyournalcolorresultbyopeningupalmost
limitless possibilities.
Cooling Violet
Additive
The Cooling Violet Additive can be added to any
existing Wella Color Charm shade to reduce unwanted
warm tones. This is ideal if your client’s hair has
a high degree of natural warm tone (underlying
pigment), or if you want to create a more matte type
of result.
To use the Cooling Additive, add between 2-4 capfuls
of Cooling Violet Additive to a full mixture of Wella
Color Charm. The more Cooling Violet Additive you
use, the more pronounced the effect will be on your
nalresult.
High Lift Blonding
Wella Color Charm high lift blondes will give you beautiful clear blonde
results with a variety of tones. They are best suited
on clients with a natural level 6 or above.
To use the High Lift Blonde shades mix:
1 part Wella Color Charm liquid color with
2 parts Wella Color Charm clear developer.
Apply to the hair using either an applicator
bottle or bowl and brush. Develop for
NATURAL ASH GOLD
12A / 1210
FROSTY ASH
12AA / 1120
NORDIC BLONDE
12C / 1290
ULTRA LIGHT BLONDE
12NG
SURF SIDE BLONDE PLUS
12N / 1200
HIGH LIFT BLONDE
30 minutes or up to 45 minutes for
maximum lift.
For maximum lift (up to 4 levels) use
Wella Color Charm 40 volume developer
with Wella Color Charm liquid color.
17
18
Wella Color Charm Toners
Wella Color Charm provides 5 different toning shades, in three
different toner families (Ash, Beige and Silver). These can be used
to create beautiful soft blondes with just the right tonal character to
suit your client.
Tousethesetoningshadesyoumustrst
prelighten the hair to approximately half a shade
lighter than your desired result. Once the desired
level of lift is achieved, remove the lightener by
shampooing thoroughly.
Mix 1 part Wella Color Charm toner with 2 parts
20 volume developer, apply to towel dried hair and
develop for up to 30 minutes.
Check frequently for desired result.
T-11
LIGHTEST BEIGE BLONDE
T-35
BEIGE BLONDE
SILVER BEIGEASH
T-10
PALE BLONDE
T-14
PALE ASH BLONDE
T-18
LIGHTEST ASH BLONDE
PRE-LIGHTEN TO PALE YELLOW
PRE-LIGHTEN
TO GOLD
Optimum Gray Hair Coverage
19
Top tips for achieving optimum coverage on gray hair:
1. Select a shade on a level 8 or darker for best coverage. Lighter shades will create
a more translucent effect.
2. Shades from the Natural or Gold family will produce a more natural result with optimum coverage.
3. Always mix with 20 volume Wella Color Charm developer.
4. Apply product generously, starting at the area of the head that has the highest percentage
of white or is most resistant.
5. Process for 30 minutes, check and extend to 45 minutes if needed.
6. For better coverage on hair that is over 50% white, mix with equal parts of a Wella Color Charm
Natural or Gold shade at the same level.
Natural Haircolor:
Client is a natural level 5 with 75% white
Desired Result:
Slightly lighter with red violet tones
Recommended Formula:
1 oz 6RV + 1 oz 6N + 4 oz Color Charm 20 vol. developer
Application:
1)Takenepartingsandapplycolorgenerouslytoeachsectionofhair.
2) Process for up to 45 minutes. Check frequently for desired result.
EXAMPLE
75% WHITE
EXERCISES
Natural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 6 with 50 % white
Desired Result, Same level with a Red Gold tone
Formula, Shade/s Used Developer
Natural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 3 with 25 % white
Desired Result, Two levels lighter with a red tone
Formula, Shade/s Used Developer
Natural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 6 with 75 % white
Desired Result, Same level with a Gold tone
Formula, Shade/s Used Developer
50% WHITE
25% WHITE
75% WHITE
Wella Color Charm
Consultation Guide
Step 1
Determine the client’s natural haircolor level using the
swatches in the Natural Shade Family of the Wella
Color Charm Haircolor Swatchbook as a guide.
Step 2
Determine the percentage of gray/white hair.
If the client is over 50% gray, please see the section titled
Optimum Coverage on Gray/White Hair.
Step 3
Select the desired level and tone of the desired color
result. The Color Charm Swatchbook shows the many
options available.
Step 4
Select the appropriate developer to achieve
the desired shade result.
20
21
Bold panels of color will create vibrant
contrasts that will enhance your haircut
and create interest in your client’s total
look. Ideal for one-length hair of all lengths.
Step 1 Take a teardrop-
shaped section from
the front hairline to
the crown. The section
should come into a
point on the crown.
Step 2 Subdivide this
teardrop section
diagonally, taking a
curved section that
follows the head shape.
STEP-BY-STEP
HAIR CONDITION: GOOD CONDITION / STARTING LEVEL: 5 /
PREVIOUS HAIRCOLOR: DEMI PERMANENT / HAIR LENGTH: CHIN LENGTH /
TARGET RESULT: CONTRASTING PANELS OF RED / TECHNIQUE: RED VELVET
Step 3 Apply formula
A to the perimeter
section from roots
to ends.
Step 4 Apply formula B to
one-half of the teardrop
section, applying from
roots to ends, and apply
formula C to the opposite
half in the same way.
Stylist Tip: Place foil between
each section to maintain
separation of each color.
SHADE
MIXING RATIO
PRODUCT
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
FORMULA
A
B
C
7R / 810
6RV /607
6RG / 544
1 : 2
20 VOL
1 : 2
20 VOL
1 : 2
20 VOL
Red Velvet
Step-by-Step
Technique
22
Create texture within full head colors that will
complement the hair’s natural movement and
haircut. This technique is best suited to medium-
to-longer lengths of hair containing long layers.
Best results will be seen on hair which has some
natural movement.
Brown Silk
Step-by-Step
Technique
Step 1 Take a medium
triangular section on top
of the head. This section
should be at an angle and
set back slightly from the
hairline.
Step 2 Take a large
triangular section
at the back of the
head around the
occipital bone.
STEP BY STEP
HAIR CONDITION: DRY, DAMAGED / STARTING LEVEL: 6 /
PREVIOUS HAIRCOLOR: LIGHTENED / HAIR LENGTH: SHOULDER LENGTH WITH
SOME LAYERS / TARGET RESULT: RICH BROWN WITH LIGHTER
PANELS TO CREATE TEXTURE / TECHNIQUE: BROWN SILK
Step 3 Take a small
triangular section
above one ear.
Step 4 Using foil to
separate from the
remainder of the hair,
apply formula A to
each of the triangular
sections, applying
from roots to ends.
Step 5 Apply formula
B in-between the
triangle sections to all
of the remaining hair.
Apply from roots to
ends.
PRODUCT
SHADE
MIXING RATIO
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
A
B
FORMULA
FOIL
COLOR
SILVER
23
1 : 2
20 VOL
1 : 2
20 VOL
6A / 462
5G / 435
23
Create depth and contrast to the hair with this quick
and easy technique. Ideal for medium to long lengths of
hair. This technique will be effective
on most haircuts, but the most striking results
can be achieved when the hair has had long
layers or graduation to reveal the perimeter color.
Blonde Satin
Step-by-Step
Technique
HAIR CONDITION: SLIGHTLY DRY / STARTING LEVEL: 6 /
PREVIOUS HAIRCOLOR: HIGHLIGHTS / HAIR LENGTH: MID-LENGTH WITH
SOME LAYERS / TARGET RESULT: BLONDE WITH CONTRASTING
PERIMETER / TECHNIQUE: BLONDE SATIN
Step 1
Take a star-shaped
section on the top of
the head, following the
perimeter hairline.
Step 2
Apply formula A
to the perimeter
section from roots
to ends.
STEP BY STEP
Step 3
Apply formula B
to the star-shaped
section from roots
to ends.
Stylist Tip: Place foil over the
perimeter section to maintain good
separation of the two colors.
SHADE MIXING RATIO
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
B
FORMULA
12A / 1290
1 : 2
40 VOL
PRODUCT
WELLA COLOR
CHARM
A 7N / 711
1 : 2
20 VOL
24
Wella Color Charm, with its 62 easily intermixable shades allows you to
customize and modify your formulas for each and every client.
Be creative with a palette without boundaries.
Personalize every result. Below are some formula favorites from the Wella
Color Charm education team.
Wella Color Charm
Creative Formulation Chart
25
LIVELY BLONDES WARM BROWNS LUSTROUS REDS
1 part 6R +
2 parts 3RV
1 part 9G +
3 parts 8RG
3 parts
5WR + 1 part
5RG
1 part 5WV +
1 part 4A
1 bottle
10GV + half
capful 7R
1 bottle of
12A + 1 capful
of cool
intensier
DESCRIPTIONFORMULANAME
IDEAL FOR
SWATCH
dark
cherry
rose gold
rich
chestnut
coffee
bean
molten gold
dusky
blonde
Deep violet
with underlying
red tones giving
more vibrancy
Vibrant
copper tone with
strong golden
undertones
Enhance your
rich browns
with just
a hint of red
A cool brown
with just a hint
of violet
A soft
strawberry
blonde that
provides
brightness with
just a hint of red
Cool dusky
blonde with
violet
undertones
Ideal for clients
with darker natural
hair; great
complement
to cool skin tone
Clients who want
to be noticed
with a vibrant
copper red
Clients wanting
a rich inviting
brown with
a hint of red
Ideal for clients
not wanting to see
red tones within
their brown
haircolor
Clients wanting
to achieve a
more personalized
color that
achieves interest
Clients wanting a
very ashy blonde.
Ideal for clients on
a level 7 or above
26
Notes
27
Notes
Color Charm has discontinued 14 shades due to declining sales. Wella recommendations are not exact matches and a strand test is recommended to preview the results.
DISCONTINUED SHADE WELLA RECOMMENDS NEW RESULTS WILL BE
12P Ivory Blonde Plus 12A/1210 Frosty Ash or 12AA/1120 More drab and cool
9CG Soft Platinum Gold Plus 9NG Sand Blonde Slightly more Neutral-Gold
8CG Light Platinum Gold Plus 8NG Light Beige Blonde Slightly more Neutral-Gold
7CG Medium Platinum Gold Plus 7NG Medium Beige Blonde Slightly more Neutral-Gold
8G Light Pure Gold Blonde 8G/841 Light Golden Blonde Very close, slightly more Gold
7G Medium Pure Gold Blonde 7G/725 Sunlight Blonde Brown Half level darker
8GR Copper Sun 8RG/ 729 Titian Red Blonde
Slightly more Red-Gold than Gold-Red. Can add a cap of Warming Gold to enhance Gold tonality
6GR Canyon Copper 6RG/ 544 Light Copper Slightly more Red-Gold than Gold-Red. Can add a cap of Warming Gold to enhance Gold tonality
12W Malibu Blonde Plus 12NG Surf Side Blonde Plus Less Warm and more Neutral-Gold
9WR Apricot 8RG plus 1 cap Warming Gold Will provide a close comparison but with slightly more copper-gold
633 Red Blaze 6R Red Terra Cotta 6R slightly more Red
T-28 Princess Blonde T-10 Pale Blonde T-10 is slightly less Beige
T-15 Baroness Beige T11 Lightest Beige Blonde T-11 slightly less Beige
T-27 Regal Beige T35 Beige Blonde T-35 slightly deeper
DISCONTINUED SHADES
Color Charm has changed several shade names to better describe
their haircolor results.
SHADE OLD NEW
NUMBER SHADE NAME SHADE NAME
12N/1200 Blonde Claire High Lift Blonde
5AA/336 Light Drab Brown Light Brown Intense Ash
6AA/542 Ash Blonde Dark Blonde Intense Ash
7AA/632 Medium Ash Blonde Medium Blonde Intense Ash
T35 Imperial Beige Beige Blonde
T11 Royal Blonde Lightest Beige Blonde
T14 Silver Lady Pale Ash Blonde
T18 White Lady Lightest Ash Blonde
T10 Ivory Lady Pale Blonde
050 Light Drabber Cooling Violet
042 Gold Warming Gold
SHADE NAME CHANGES: SHADE NUMBER DOES NOT CHANGE
Color Charm with Liquifuse™ Technology and improved fragrance has several shades that now look different when mixed in the application bottle or bowl.
The actual haircolor results are similarbut not exact matches. A strand test is recomended to preview the results.
SHADE NAME PREVIOUS COLOR CHARM APPEARANCE NEW APPEARANCE
810/7R Unmixed (unopened bottle): dark brown-red; When mixed: Unmixed (unopened bottle): light yellow-orange;
dark brown-red; 30 minutes after mixing: dark black red When mixed: beige-rose; 30 minutes after mixing: red-brown
257/4G Unmixed (unopened bottle): yellow; When mixed: white-yellow; Unmixed (unopened bottle): orange; When mixed: orange;
30 minutes after mixing: yellow-brown 30 minutes after mixing: orange-brown
6R Unmixed (unopened bottle): light-orange; Unmixed (unopened bottle): yellow-orange;
When mixed: light-yellow; 30 minutes after mixing: orange-rose When mixed: white-rose; 30 minutes after mixing: dark-rose
051/1N Unmixed (unopened bottle): brown; Unmixed (unopened bottle): yellow;
When mixed: brown; 30 minutes after mixing: dark brown When mixed: yellow brown; 30 minutes after mixing: black
544/6RG Unmixed (unopened bottle): orange-red; When mixed: Unmixed (unopened bottle): orange-red;
orange-yellow; 30 minutes after mixing: orange-brown When mixed: orange; 30 minutes after mixing: red-brown
336/5AA Unmixed (unopened bottle): light-yellow; Unmixed (unopened bottle): light-yellow;
When mixed: beige; 30 minutes after mixing: violet-brown When mixed: beige; 30 minutes after mixing: beige-brown
50 Unmixed (unopened bottle): light-yellow; Unmixed (unopened bottle): light-yellow;
When mixed: beige; 30 minutes after mixing: pale rose-violet When mixed: beige; 30 minutes after mixing: blue
BP Unmixed (unopened bottle): light blue; Unmixed (unopened bottle): light yellow
When mixed: light blue; 30mins after mixing: light blue When mixed: white; 30mins after mixing:: light yellow
CHANGE IN COLOR CHARM APPEARANCE - BUT SIMILAR HAIRCOLOR RESULTS
ColorCharmwithLiquifuse™Technologyandoralfragrancehas28shadesthatnowhavesomewhatdifferentnishedresults.The actual haircolor results are similar but not
exact matches. A strand test is recommended to preview the results.
051/1N Black 542/6AA Ash Blonde/ Dark Blonde Intense Ash 9G Soft Pure Gold Blonde 810/7R Red-Red
211/2N Very Dark Brown 632/7AA Medium Ash Blonde / Medium Blonde Intense Ash 5WR Allspice 367/3RV Black Cherry
311/3N Dark Brown 1120/12AA Nordic Blonde 445/5RG Light Auburn 507/5RV Burgundy
411/4N Medium Brown 7NG Medium Beige Blonde 544/6RG Light Copper 607/6RV Cyclamen
3NW Dark Natural Warm Brown 8NG Light Beige Blonde 729/8RG Titian Red Blonde BP Blonding Plus
148/3A Dark Ash Brown 1070/10NG Honey Beige Blonde 356/4R Cinnamon Brown 042 Gold/ Warming Gold
336/5AA Light Drab Brown / 257/4G Dark Golden Blonde 6R Red Terra Cotta 050 Light Drabber/
Light Brown Intense Ash Cooling Violet
CHANGE IN COLOR CHARM HAIRCOLOR RESULTS
• 28 shades have similar but not identical results.
A strand test is recommended. Please see the
list below.
• 11 shades have had name changes (mainly Toners)
Please see the list below.
• 8 shades will now look different when mixed
with developer, although the results are very
similar. See list below.
WHAT’S CHANGED?
COLOR CHARM’S EXCELLENT COVERAGE
HAS NOT CHANGED
BUT SOME THINGS HAVE!
colorcharm.com Hotline 1-866-722-4146 ©2011 The Wella Corporation, Woodland Hills, CA 91367 All rights reserved. WEP-NA-R066-11 3904-5032
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